NJ Saltwater Fisherman Forums
Boating => Mechanical Forum => Topic started by: PeggyLee on April 12, 2008, 12:41:03 PM
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I plan on installing a Racor water/fuel seperator on an Honda 4stroke outboard.I plan on putting it on the outside of a seat in the stern. Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated. Thanks, AJ.
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Only thing I can suggest is to make sure you get the one with the see thru bowl on the bottom. Then, you can see if there is any water in the system and drain it out. If you get the one with the spin on cannister (looks like an oil filter) you will be constantly changing it.
Also, get the stainless mount, not the painted one.
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Joe, I need to know do I fasten it up and then place the primer bulb on the fuel line closest to the motor or the bulp is placed before the seperator. Yes, changing it def. a must w/ethanol gas.
Then I will tape the spot ,make and drill holes ,fasten with cuaking and ss bolts.Any thought? Thanks
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I went thru same thing last year. Just tape and drill hole, then use a good amount of 5200 in the hole prior to screwing in. I did not thru bolt as I could not get behind it. Doesn't seem to need it in my install.
The one I have (S3227 filter), their is no stainless mount. Only painted.
Racor does not make any stainless mounts. The stainless mount is by Sierra marine, but only accepets the smaller, lower GPH filter.
I paid <$50 for a full setup on ebay, so shop around before plunking down $120 on a Racor 320-01 setup at West marine, etc.
Install took me (mostly my pops) about 20mn.
Just need to get extra fuel line.
I am not sure what type of seat you are talking about, but mine is mounted on my transom, on the side of the "notch". It is fine there and easy to get to.
You can see it in this pic:
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Follow the instructions here.
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/bo_maintenance_repair/article/0,2021,DIY_13718_2278145,00.html
This shows installing the filter. Go to the third installment that shows routing the fuel lines. That should answer any question you have about the installation.
It is pretty much straight forward. As long as your fuel line is accessable and you have a place to mount the filter base it shouldn't take but an hour or so start to finish. t^
Good luck.
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PeggyLee, you have a PM.
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Nice link Joe. Most o/b installations have the primer bulb between the tank and the filter so suction requirements are minimized but if the line is not too long and the filter restriction is low should work betweeen the filter and motor almost as well. Remember you will be pulling thru the filter also if you install right before the motor. Make sure all clamps are tight, even double clamp perhaps, and you should be goodtogo. Always carry a spare filter and a wrench onboard.
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Thanks for the feed back guys.I was outside doing some work on the boat.I will check the site out. Is any body using the Stainless Steel Mount on the outside with a clear element ?Can you see the water from the fuel.Is it okay with the Coast Guard inspections? I welcome input. Thanks, AJ
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AJ, I run the stainless mount with the clear bowl. Not a problem with anything with it. I can see if there is any water at the bottom of the bowl. This past summer I had no problems with water. The summer before that I was emptying the bowl after about a month or so. Possibly no water last year was because of the frequent use of the boat and using the fuel before it had a chance to gather water.
Warren, thanks for the info on the placement on the filter. I would have had to run down to the boat and look at mine to get an answer. t^
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I was always told to place the filter before the primer bulb.
That's how mine is and no issues at all.
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Thanks guys for the replies. I found out (called a dealer/supplier ) that they have the S/S base and Racor elements with the clear replaceble drain bowl.Now I have to determine best location to mount.While i am doing the job ,might replace the fuel line and do all new s/s clamps from the tank back to motor. Or is this necessary ? Joe,and mboy and wb your input is appreciated. AJ
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t^ Good luck with the install AJ.
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For those of you interested.
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/fuelFilter.pdf slt
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Thanks guys for the replies. I found out (called a dealer/supplier ) that they have the S/S base and Racor elements with the clear replaceble drain bowl.Now I have to determine best location to mount.While i am doing the job ,might replace the fuel line and do all new s/s clamps from the tank back to motor. Or is this necessary ? Joe,and mboy and wb your input is appreciated. AJ
Not a bad idea to replace all the line and clamps while you are at it.
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MBOY . WHY DID YOU INSTALL IT ON THE OUT SIDE AND NOT UNDER THE STERN AREA? SORRY FOR THE CAPS TO LAZY TO REDO ;D
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Under where? In the bilge?
I had very little choice on the transom as it is fairly low were the engine sits:
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Under where? In the bilge?
I had very little choice on the transom as it is fairly low were the engine sits:
am sorry , yes in the bilge , IT looks like it would be better where you installed yours . I must add one t^
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Bilge not ideal as it would make it much more difficult to get to and check if their is water, to let the water out or chnage the filter.
I know someone with same exact boat as me, had it in the bilge, then decided to move it when it corroded and he was tired of having to reach in to change it.
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Got all the parts yesterday:Stainless steel base,with the filter the kit comes with,two brass plugs and two elbows to gas line intake and out(replacing the gas line also)and the 3213 Racor filter and s/s clamps. Just need an hour or so after work to do the install tomarrow or the next night.Will inform you guys. AJ.
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t^
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Job Complete
Cost of S/s Base and kit 60.00 w extra element
Racor element 45.00 with drain bulb
all new fuel line 28.00 8ft.all new
new clamps (doubled)20.00 16pcs.
S/s bolts,washers,nts 10.00
caulking total aprox.163.
AND IT WORKS !!!!
yes,expensive but still cheaper than the Marina and Mechanic bill.
To say you did yourself: PRICELESS !!!
Thank you guys for your imput.
AJ.
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why do you have to change the gas line ? cant you just cut it and put clamps on? bngh
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would've worked either way
maintenance is a good thing
Not a bad idea to replace all the line and clamps while you are at it.
t^
Sounds like it went well, congrats.
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Just a word of caution. I have one and like it alot for it's ability to look inside and "knock on wood" , I haven't had to deal with anything while out on the water, but at the end of the season when taking the whole deal off to change elements, it's a real tough job separating the metal can from the plastic bowl on the bottom. It practically takes "3 men and a boy" to get it loose. I generally have to pop a phillips head through the metal section while holding the plastic portion with a strap wrench for fear of breaking it. I always take care not to over tighten it when putting it on but it never seems to fail to be locked up when replacement time comes. For that reason I carry a full size metal "stock" fuel seperator element with me in case I have to do a quick change at sea or something. Just my .02 cents ::)
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Buddah8, I also carry a stock screw on filter in case of emergency. If the bowl were to damaged while at sea, just put the spin on filter in place of the bowl/filter assembly.
When you put on the filter at the beginning of the season, try putting a coating of motor oil on the O-ring seal and the seat between the filter and bowl. This may help some in removal.
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Hello Buddah and Joe. Thanks for the info. I also will carry a stock metal for emergency spin on. Like Joe said a coat of oil on the next change might help easy the pain.I also heard there is a wrench. Good Fishing ! AJ.