NJ Saltwater Fisherman Forums
Boating => Mechanical Forum => Topic started by: sea nymph on April 09, 2008, 07:24:44 PM
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Ran the boat yesterday and both the Trim Meter and Tachometer weren't working. Checked the wires and connections and all seemed to be OK. When the motor is powered, both needles on the gauges swing up 5hrug. (rpm's over 7000 and trim all the way up) Any suggestions?
BTW - nice job on opening this forum!!!
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The last time I had a tach quit the voltage regulator had taken a dump. I would check the output from the charging system since many tachs count the impluses coming from there.
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whs
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Also check you ground (negative) wires if they have any. Make sure your Battery connectors are tight. ;)
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Thanks for the input! The ground and battery connectors checked out ok, I'll check the output from the charging system next.
Thanks again!
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at the moment, thats the only problem I haven't had yet...
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Also check you ground (negative) wires if they have any. Make sure your Battery connectors are tight. ;)
It's usually grounding related if you see sudden swings of the gage at all. In my experience sometimes the ground looks good but maybe notsogood. If easy run a temporary new ground direct to confirm. Could be a ground in a location that may not be intuitive. Sometimes things are "grounded" but not to each other. Maybe the battery ground itself.
I don't think I should use the word ground any more in this reply.
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My trim Gauge quit working 2 years ago, last year it starting working fine, then quit again. I know I have a loose wire SOMEWHERE, just a matter of finding it. 5hrug
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My trim Gauge quit working 2 years ago, last year it starting working fine, then quit again. I know I have a loose wire SOMEWHERE, just a matter of finding it. 5hrug
From what I have reseached this a pretty common problem. Mine doesnt work either but I know what the problem is. On the mount. Stationary part. Piece of plastic that engages the trim sensor is broken. Without out it trim sensor stays in 1 spot.
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Saltwater and electrical connections don't mix well. Take the extra step to tape or liquid tape or silicon over all exposed electrical connectors. Heat Shrink is great too, just remember to put it on before the connection is made with a stake-on connector. bngh I know you have all done that! Also try to keep all your wires that are in the bilge as high as possible and use marine grade wire. It cost more but lasts a long time. I just spent $150 bucks on marine wire. And I had the the same non-marine, household wire in my garage. I Just don't want to do the the same wiring job again in a couple of years.
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Saltwater and electrical connections don't mix well. Take the extra step to tape or liquid tape or silicon over all exposed electrical connectors. Heat Shrink is great too, just remember to put it on before the connection is made with a stake-on connector. bngh I know you have all done that! Also try to keep all your wires that are in the bilge as high as possible and use marine grade wire. It cost more but lasts a long time. I just spent $150 bucks on marine wire. And I had the the same non-marine, household wire in my garage. I Just don't want to do the the same wiring job again in a couple of years.
What is the difference between the 2 wires, I'm guessing it would be in the insulation. I know I have seen marine grade shrink tubing also, I figured it was just a gimmick to get a couple of more bucks for it adding the word "Marine" to the package. 5hrug
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sometimes a different stranding of the copper (less paths for salt to get in) or different insulation (harder for salt to get in) or sometimes NOTHING different but the price.
"what he said" to hunter2's suggestions keep the salt away at (almost) any cost
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The difference is the marine grade wires is "tinned" copper instead of regualrold copper.
The "tinning" helps prevent oxidation and corrosion I believe.
It isn'y just price, their is a difference between regular wire and tinned wire as far as longevity in salt water environments.
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WESTMARINE
$45
new tach.
problem solved. Easy to change too.
Throw some money at it, and it usually gets better.
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Marine grade wire also has more strands than regular wire reducing the resistance of the wire. There is an ebay store selling wire relatively cheap. (greg17474) Just bought 100' of 6 awg for .99 cents a foot. boaters world wanted 3.50 a foot. and the wire meets marine specs.
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Is that gonna be your new anchor line Vinnie? ;D That's a lot of wire!
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wiring for the new windlass have to go from port,stern of the boat around to starboard up to cockpit back out and up starboard side to the bow. positve and negative 50' each.
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Marine grade wire also has more strands than regular wire reducing the resistance of the wire. There is an ebay store selling wire relatively cheap. (greg17474) Just bought 100' of 6 awg for .99 cents a foot. boaters world wanted 3.50 a foot. and the wire meets marine specs.
Thats a great price! Good luck with the installation t^
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wiring for the new windlass have to go from port,stern of the boat around to starboard up to cockpit back out and up starboard side to the bow. positve and negative 50' each.
Hey Joe aren't you thinking of putting a windless on your boat ??? After Vinnie is done practicing on his boat sounds like he is going to be the man to see TT^
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I'd love for that to happen. I'm tired of trying to run the boat and yank the anchors. I gotta get me a younger crew. TT^