NJ Saltwater Fisherman Forums

NJ Saltwater Fisherman => Non-Fishing Discussions => Topic started by: ped579 on October 06, 2013, 01:09:12 PM

Title: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: ped579 on October 06, 2013, 01:09:12 PM
Just blowing off some steam...

I was suppose to be judging the Governors Cup Fishing Tournament today but the Expedition had other plans.

I was up at 2:55 AM and out the door at 3:30 AM to get to the judges meeting at 4:30 AM.  Sat through the meeting got all the necessary stuff; forms, measuring boards, radio's and assignments.  Go out to the car and start that thing up and as soon as I took my foot off the gas the idle went down to 450rpms.  Well I knew that was not good.  Right away I thought it was the gas I just put in but it was not running rough. Had to excuse myself from this years tourny and told Tin Burden about my problem.

Well got home and looked on line about my problem and it seems that the Idle Air Control Valve is going to be the problem.  And of course it is in a position that I or should I say my old body can not get into that position any more.

I will have to take it to my auto repair shop in the morning and see what it will cost to have that thing replaced.  I looked up the part and it goes for 43 bucks so we'll see.

Dag nabit, automobiles...

Thanks for listening.  Er, reading.
Title: Re: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: Duffman on October 06, 2013, 01:44:02 PM
Keep your foot on the pedal and hold a higher RPM while it gets to operating temps.  Once it gets to temp it should run fine unless the T/B is filthy.
Title: Re: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: ped579 on October 06, 2013, 03:33:44 PM
Nope, I tried that when I was out there this morning it is the IACV.  There is just too much leading to it being the problem. 
Title: Re: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: Hotrod on October 06, 2013, 04:45:22 PM
Sucks..
Title: Re: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: fluke - u on October 06, 2013, 07:16:41 PM
 5hrug...IAC..... :headscra:....PVC...... nts....ECM...... thud....Hope it is an easy fix for you.... chrz
Title: Re: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: Bucktail on October 06, 2013, 07:54:28 PM
It stinks that you had to miss the tournament.  Hopefully you can get your truck back up and running soon.
Title: Re: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: ped579 on October 06, 2013, 08:04:54 PM
All indications point to the IAC...

if it is it is a simple fix for a good mechanic.  I know where it is but I just can't get at it.

Title: Re: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: Hunter 2 on October 06, 2013, 08:29:08 PM
Too bad.
It could have been worse though.
  Good luck
Title: Re: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: ped579 on October 07, 2013, 03:16:09 PM
Still waiting to hear the news about the repair.
Title: Re: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: Fisherman120 on October 07, 2013, 06:44:46 PM
I hear ya, I just bought a used SUV for 5300$, was about the value, stupid me didn't bring a mechanic... 5600 in repairs. Unbelievable
Title: Re: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: ped579 on October 07, 2013, 06:53:22 PM
Ouch.  Still waiting to hear, so I guess it will be in till tomorrow.
Title: Re: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: Ms Fish on October 08, 2013, 02:14:15 PM
Bummer you missed the tourney. :-\ I know you love all that stuff. Hope things worked out with the repairs!  
Title: Re: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: ped579 on October 08, 2013, 02:18:56 PM
It's still in the shop.  I hope they find out the root of the problem as I told them I do not want to get stuck out on the sand and have to be towed off at 500 bucks a pop.  Keep it as long as you need to make sure the problem IS solved.

Title: Re: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: Ms Fish on October 08, 2013, 03:44:23 PM
Got that right! I hope you trust them or have been to them before and know the work is good or that they back it up if something went wrong after the fact. Good luck either way!  
Title: Re: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: Reel Time on October 13, 2013, 10:54:02 AM
 Sorry Paul, I should have paid more attention to postings, I could have came down and installed that for you. I have done everything from ball joints to valves in the driveway.

 If you should have further simple problems,, send me a pm and see what we can do.

 Just can't guarantee speedy service. If it appears to be an hour or so job, that is not an issue and can be done after work during the week,, much longer than that and it would have to be a sunday.

 Again pm me if you have needs in the future,,, my pay schedule can't be beat,,, free, just pass on the kindness down the road, which you do anyways.
Title: Re: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: ped579 on October 13, 2013, 06:04:51 PM
Thank You Sir.  I guess the problem came in where the codes indicated that there were 2 vacuum leaks but all the lines checked out just fine.  So he took my suggestion and replaces the valve and well it worked.  Just a question some say the negative side of the battery should be removed but what if it was not could the computer on board see the new add on having problems as I think the rpms are still a tad low or I am not used to it running around 725 and not 750.  I know the range is 650 to 750 but just questioning...

Maybe I should just take the lead off for 2 min like the article mentioned and be done with it.
Title: Re: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: Reel Time on October 13, 2013, 06:52:11 PM
 Not sure, but it can take the computer upto 100 miles to refresh all of its info.

 Failed alot of vehicles that came through the inspection station because the computer was reset and not enough time giving to refresh the system.
Title: Re: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: ped579 on October 13, 2013, 06:54:07 PM
Understood.  I will ride it a while before I get onto the sand again.  Everything else is okay.
Title: Re: Car repair really S@<k$
Post by: gregert12 on October 23, 2013, 12:39:55 PM
Disconnecting the battery will usually clear the check engine light due to any active faults but they will still show up in the memory which you will need a scan tool to remove.  I would leave it disconnected for 10 minutes to ensure all the capacitors are drained.

There is also a procedure of something near 400 miles or 15 cold starts when you get the vehicle to operating temp, have it cool and warm it up again.