Author Topic: Kayak Fishing 101 (Read 56375 times)

DAK · « **on:** July 25, 2008, 12:48:08 PM »

OK, here is a little primer on kayak fishing. Rod could you sticky this? I figure I will be adding to it for the next week or so before I'm done, and also feel free to reply with posts to add to the body of information. Please note that this should not be taken as a technical guide or a how-to on kayak fishing, but more of an overview for those that may be totally new to the sport or may be thinking of checking out kayaking as a means to catch saltwater fish. Although I have 20+ years of paddling experience in one form or another, I have only been salt water yak fishing for 3 years now, so I am by no means an expert, and have not explored all of the possibilities in yak fishing. For instance, I still have not been out front, as my yak is not designed for the rigors of a surf landing (more on that later).

The Boats

You’ve probably already heard of them: SOTs and SIKs. Sit On Tops are by far the most popular and versatile for fishing. I have seen some yak fishermen bring enough rods and other equipment on their SOTs that would crowd a 20’ CC boat. They are roomy, comfortable, you can move around unimpeded, and there’s a lot of surfaces to mount your stuff – fishfinder, rod holders, flat panel TV, margarita maker, etc. The compromise: they tend to be heavy and slow compared with Sit In Kayaks. Also, because you and your equipment are up on top rather than inside the yak, your center of gravity will be higher, and this makes you a little more unstable. I have seen people on SOTs all of a sudden just FLOOP! and I'm looking at their keel for no apparent reason except being a little too top-heavy. At least SOTs are easier to get back on from the water. SIKs are generally not built for fishing. They may have the same amount of cargo capacity, but your stuff will not be as accessible since you are not as mobile sitting down in the enclose cockpit. I have a SIK, and I generally just bring my tackle box, a dry bag, 2 rods, a handheld fishfinder, and a back pack which I put inside the one rear hatch that I can access while on the water. I have only one Scotty rod holder, although with two mounts so I can switch positions. When I want to keep fish that I have caught, I put them on a stringer over the side of the yak, and haul them into the cockpit when I have to move. The few times I have kept a really large striper, I paddled over to a bank and put them in my forward hatch (which I can’t access while sitting in the boat). The one big advantage of a SIK: SPEED! A ten mile paddle is no big deal in my yak, whereas on most SOTs your arms would fall off after 3 miles. I have had many a fellow yaker toss nasty words and expletives at me (all in good fun, and in vain I might add) as I passed them by while they were struggling out towards our fishing destination. That being said, there are lighter, sleeker, faster SOTs out there, but they tend to be expensive high-end models (take a look at SeaFlea’s new beauty that he posted on this forum) that you don’t see very commonly out on the water.

Two more things about the boats. Propulsion: Paddle versus Peddle. Hobie came out with a hands-free mode of propulsion called the Mirage Drive that became an instant hit with yak fishermen. It works using two fins (they look like the pectoral fins of a bottlenose dolphin) on the bottom of the boat that are driven by foot pedals. The one obvious advantage, and a big one at that, is that you can hold your position against wind and/or current while you fish. I hate when I’m fishing a promising bridge location and I fly right through the structure without much time to present my goods to the fish. If I get a SOT, it will be one with the mirage drive (I think the models are the Outback and the Adventurer). Disadvantages of the mirage drive are that the fins have to be retracted in very shallow water <6”, it is not that fast, and it is expensive. As far as the paddle mode of propulsion, I have found that the paddle makes a lot of difference. I started with a Werner Skagit, a mid-level fiberglass/plastic paddle, and thought it was great. Recently I got a Werner Camano, which has a carbon shaft and thin fiberglass blade, and it makes a world of difference as far as speed and arm fatigue. Don’t skimp on your paddle!

The second thing to know about boats: Materials. Most recreational/fishing yaks are made of rotomolded ABS plastic, which is rugged and relatively inexpensive, but not the lightest or fastest. After the initial honeymoon period with your new yak during which you notice every little new scratch, you pretty much don’t worry about a rotomolded yak and beat the crap out of it as you go about the business of trying to catch fish. There are, however, other materials that are much lighter, prettier, and faster, but they tend to be more fragile, and yes, more expensive. Listed in order of weight, speed, fragility, and expense, they are: carbon, fiberglass, and Aeralite. Aeralite is a trade name for a plastic that is a compromise between glass and ABS. It is still molded (usually in two halves top and bottom), but it is lighter, more rigid (rigidity adds speed), and has a nice fast shiny surface. I imagine the Trylon of Flea's beautiful new boat is similar if not identical to Aeralite.

Safety

It is difficult to overemphasize safety for yak fishing. In just the last year alone, I think I can recall at least 3 people losing their lives in NJ waters.
People tend to overestimate their skills, and underestimate nature, and that's a bad combination. So here is a list of safety considerations especially relevent to yaking. None of them have much wiggle room without putting yourself at serious risk of becoming crab bait.

Visibility - I will try not to offend power boaters here, but although most are careful and considerate (and quite often curious) around a yak fisherman, some of them are just flat out nuts and even beligerent. Multiply that by 1000 for jet skiers (I really don't care if I offend them). So visibility is your only real defense against that guy bearing down on you while he turns around reaching for his beer. The sooner he sees you the better. A bright yak, bright paddle blades, and a blaze orange safety flag are the minimum, esp the flag if you are going out front where you can disappear between the swells. At night, visibility becomes even more important. One would think this is a no-brainer, but I have read a number of reports where boaters come across a yak out there in the dark with no lights. As Flea mentions below, yaks should NOT use red/green running lights, as this implies the ability to move quickly to avoid a collision. One nice bright white light mounted on the stern at least 3' above the water line will suffice. I also always wear a LED headlamp that can be used in addition if a situation warrants it.

Personal Flotation - there is no wiggle room on this one. Don't go out without a PFD. Period. I have a manually triggered inflatable that uses a compressed air cartridge for the comfort factor. A PFD doesn't work if you don't wear it because it's uncomfortable.

Water/Air Temperature - IMO this is probably the biggest danger in kayak fishing NJ waters, mainly because it seems people underestimate the danger of cold water. There are only 3 months during which inshore water temps are survivable wearing just shorts and a Tshirt - July, Aug, and Sept. Even then, as we recenlty saw, upwelling can drop temps into the danger zone in the middle of the dog days. Always check water temps before you head out, and dress according to the water, not the air. There is a lot of variability in opinion on what to wear for what temps, but cotton is probably the worst material, as it provides very little insulation when wet. If the water is just a little on the cool side (60 - 70), I recommend long johns and a long sleeve shirt made from polypropylene under your shorts and T. You can get them in various thicknesses. Polypro breathes well and will give you just enough warmth to keep you from numbing out in case you dump. Below 60, you will need full blown cold water equipment. The available options are: wetsuit, drysuit, and waders/drytop. Again, opinions differ as to what is the most effective when you factor in cost and comfort (this is one of those topics that can start a 100 post thread on any kayaking forum). Wetsuits are probably the least expensive, but they are pretty uncomfortable, especially for extended periods of time. Contrary to some opinions out there, a wetsuit will keep you warm even if it is not wet. If you you go in, there will be an initial cold shock before your body has a chance to warm the layer of water inside the neoprene. The wader/drytop combo is next in terms of expense. Although most dry tops have seals of some sort at the neck and wrists, I cannot see that you would stay totally dry in one if you go for a swim. There is also some debate over whether you would sink or not if the waders were to fill with water. The drysuit is by far the best way to stay safe and comfortable when paddling on cold water, and of course, the most expensive. A drysuit keeps you dry, not warm, so you must layer your clothing appropriately under the drysuit. I would not recommend a non-breathable drysuit, as perspiration can build up inside, leading to wet/cold, which defeats the purpose. The last thing to be said about cold protection don't forget the hands and head. I prefer neoprene gloves as they will still work when wet. Stay warm, stay alive!

Fishing

Alright, now onto the good stuff. Only thing is, I am a still a newB when it comes to saltwater yak fishing, so this will be limited by what I have learned and observed so far. I have fished freshwater for about 20 yrs from canoes, but that is a totally different animal.

The one thing I know about saltwater yak fishing is that I love it. You are down close to the water, and you can observe all kinds of things you might miss in a boat. I can remember the first time I went out across the Absecon Bay flats. It was on the incoming, and as I looked down the bottom was a multi-colored garden of seaweeds and sponges crawling with all kinds of crabs and shrimps, and small fish absolutely everywhere. At one point a shadow crossed over me, and I looked up at an osprey hovering about 15 feet above me off my stern, probably eyeing a flounder I had stirred up as I paddled over it. Good stuff. OK, so let's break this down into the different areas and types of fishing you can do in a yak.

Out Front

Inlets

Open Bays

Creeks

Rivers

Flats

Bridges

Night

Hotrod · « **Reply #1 on:** July 25, 2008, 02:28:41 PM »

Great Info

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Author Topic: Kayak Fishing 101 (Read 56375 times)