I don't think the draw would be that much. FF,Gps and radio. Those 3 items right now have in line fuses. I don't see a need for a kill switch since the one for the batteries kills everything but the bilge. Or am I missing something about a second kill switch? Thanks for the help!!!
Quote from: Reckless on March 11, 2010, 01:28:51 PM I don't think the draw would be that much. FF,Gps and radio. Those 3 items right now have in line fuses. I don't see a need for a kill switch since the one for the batteries kills everything but the bilge. Or am I missing something about a second kill switch? Thanks for the help!!! If you already have a switch, you do not need to add one. I did get from your post that you had one already, that's why I never mentioned adding one. What you have to take in account: is the load that you have now, and the load you are adding. It does not matter weather or not there is an inline fuse, just because there might be one does not mean that the draw is not of any quantity. The wire you have feeding the existing fuse block could be close to its capacity already. Adding more to it could cause an overload that could make your feeder catch fire. If none of this is making any sense to you, you might want to see if you can get a buddy to help you with your project that has a better understanding of loads and electrical systems.
Jawz or anyone who can help me,After reading the posts here think my wires are wrong, not sure. I have a Grady. I use a Garmin 545s (are they considered high voltage like the raymarine?)I have one deep cycle batt and one cranking batt. I have all wires to deep cycle. I have a 2 way battery switch to both batteries. When in off position everything is cut but bilge and my vhf. When starting her up I put switch in the #2 (crank batt) position then switch to the deep (#1). Should I move some wires around i.e. radios, gps, ff?
smart play is to run an additional set of wires for that fuse block...run the power,from the battery switch,the "common" terminal,then,through an in line fuse,then to the fuse block,run the ground from the main ground junction to the fuse block...reason for this is simple,some of the newer electronics,a raymarine "c" series,for example,is a very voltage sensitive set-meaning,you need the correct voltage,running a feed to a fuse block in this manner,you have clean voltage...some boats,parkers,and grady's are an example of this,these use 1 power feed for the entire 12v system,everything runs from this,it often causes problems,such as electronics dropping off when the engines are cranked...make sure to use a marine grade fuse block-blue seas makes an excellent choice...be sure to use "tinned" marine grade wire,big difference in marine grade and cheap automotive copper...use heat shrink and marine grade connectors as well-i prefer ancor connectors and heat shrink...running wires from battery switches:only run "feed" wires from the battery switch,do not connect anything to batteries,except for battery cables...using the "common" terminal on the battery switch means,the power is on when the switch is in an on position,and,it's off when the switch is off...allways use an inline fuse when feeding something like a fuse block,from a battery switch,this assures protection from the power source-ABYC codes call for everything to be fused...i prefer and use ancor water proof inline fuse holders,"atc" style fuses...This is the way I do it as well.
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