Issues w/ 9.9 merc 2 stroke

[DJ76]

The bitch of the whole thing is I had to be in the water and run the boat for it to happen.

EXACTLY!!! 

i'm going to try and get to the solution you say tomorrow.  My budddy's bringing his boat trailer over so I can help him rewire it.  Hopefully that goes smoothly and we have extra time before the game to pull the carb and clean.  Then hopefully get boat into water!

[DJ76]

Well, finally got to pulling the carb on the motor today.  When all said and done, for a twenty plus old motor the carb looked great when we pulled it apart today.  the needles looked good, and there was no dirt/buildup anywhere in there.  Still sprayed everything down with carb cleaner and put the steel wool to the needle. Bottom line, I don't think its any type of carb issue.

My buddy did notice when removing the fuel pump screws that they were very loose.  Its possible that it was sucking air from there...but not sure why it would collapse the bulb if in fact that was the issue???

On a sour note, when we took the carb off we looked into the intake manifold (I'm assuming thats what its called) and noticed some rusty buildup on the bottom left side.  We unbolted that and tried to clean up the piece of metal that was rusted.  we got a bunch off but it still looks pitted in certain areas.  however, we were able to install the piece back 'upside down' so the pitted side was not facing the carb side.  I'm assuming this occured when the guy i bought the boat/motor from had it sitting in his back yard for years on end.

did not get a chance to get the boat back into the water to see if anything we did was a correction to the problem.  we were able to place back in a big barrel and start her up and she actually sounded a little quieter...i dunno dumb luck or wishful hearing i'm guessing.

also...i took a bunch of pics of my buddy and i pulling the carb (and the starter..found a bad relay on there...but thats another topic!!) so if anyone needs pics of a 90/91 mercury two stroke carb removal and dissassembly i have them...realize not many or any people at all are going saltwater with a 9.9 but i do have it.

again thanks for all feedback and don't be afraid to chime in with any others ideas that may pop up.

[Pops Soul]

Thanks for updating DJ hopefully the loose fuel pump screw were causing your problem. The motor at the 2 cylinder level seems relatively simple but when a problem comes up they can seem very complicated 

[Maritime Matt]

Believe it or not, these little motors can be real tuff to work on and expensive to repair. If you had the carb off, it might have been a good idea to rebuild the fuel pump. The Ethanol does a job on the rubber diaphrams. I have one of these motrs on the rack for parts. Here to help.
Matt

[DJ76]

pops soul...i'm understanding what you mean about getting complicated!!!

Maritime Matt...do you have a fuel pump on the list of parts?  If you do then I might be taking a trip if other things i'm trying doesn't work out.  the carb was easy enough to pull and can do it again with relative ease.  another question...would you happen to have a solenoid/relay for the starter?  Mine is bad and looking to get a new one along with a new switch for the elec start.


little more info......

my brother in law was over as well later in the day and he seems to think something is happening before the primer bulb...in other words on the gas tank end.  He started playing around with the gas tank connection and seems to think its a spring issue on both the connectors not mating correctly.  He jury rigged something by removing the guts of a spare connector I had as a backup and inserting a nut/bolt combo.  he feels the issue was the valve not opening enough on the tank side.

bottom line, going to take back out to round valley next time i get a chance and see if what i did to carb fixes it.  i'm also going to have his rig with me and if problem persists i'll use that to see if that elimates it.  if that doesn't do it going to bring another connector that eliminates the valves on both ends.  if not i'll stick hose direct in tank.......basically i have a checklist of stuff to try on the water....

[BigAl13]

im thinking he may be on to something. like what i said earlier about the vent on the tank not being open, if the problem is only happening with 1/2 tank then its probably not in the engine. If the bulb is collapsing its telling you the motors pulling fuel and the tank is not keeping up. Usually  a tank issue do you have a plastic tank? what type of connection is it from the fuel line to the tank and vice versa to the motor. when the tank is full theres more pressure in it making it easier to move fuel as the fuel level lowers the pressure in the tank does as well

[Maritime Matt]

Maritime Matt...do you have a fuel pump on the list of parts?  If you do then I might be taking a trip if other things i'm trying doesn't work out.  the carb was easy enough to pull and can do it again with relative ease.  another question...would you happen to have a solenoid/relay for the starter?  Mine is bad and looking to get a new one along with a new switch for the elec start.


little more info......

my brother in law was over as well later in the day and he seems to think something is happening before the primer bulb...in other words on the gas tank end.  He started playing around with the gas tank connection and seems to think its a spring issue on both the connectors not mating correctly.  He jury rigged something by removing the guts of a spare connector I had as a backup and inserting a nut/bolt combo.  he feels the issue was the valve not opening enough on the tank side.

bottom line, going to take back out to round valley next time i get a chance and see if what i did to carb fixes it.  i'm also going to have his rig with me and if problem persists i'll use that to see if that elimates it.  if that doesn't do it going to bring another connector that eliminates the valves on both ends.  if not i'll stick hose direct in tank.......basically i have a checklist of stuff to try on the water....

I would have to order the fuel pump parts as well as the relay/solonoid and elect. start switch. The motor I have was a sinker and would never trust elect parts.
For the tank , not sure what you have but assuming you have a quick connect, unscrew the fitting off the tank and just get a brass 5/16 or 3/8  barbed hose fitting, which ever is your hose size with the male or female thread to screw onto your tank. remove the fitting on the tank end of the hose and slide it on the barb. Done. That eliminates any chance of an air leak at that connection. I am currently away from the shop and should be returning the first or second week of March. I'll be glad to help you out with parts/service if still needed.
Matt

[DJ76]

Hey Matt thanks for the heads up.  One of my 'options' for process of elimination is going with a brass fitting setup and getting rid of the valves and other stuff.  hoepfully this will work.  probablly will hit you up at some point for the relay and a new mometary switch for my elec start.  just want to verify motor/tank issue is good to go before i go any further with this outboard.  trying to get boat in water but between windy days (not allowed on lake by me over20mph winds) and me working haven't been able to get out there.  thanks again

[DJ76]

little late for a response but I finally had my 9.9 merc out last night with the fuel tank at half and she worked just fine.  it seems it was the spring mechanism in the fuel line quick connect.  removed all that awhile ago (as per maritime matt....thanks yet again!!!!! ) and just replaced with a straight barb/hose clamp with no internal components.  it seemed to do the trick.  thanks again for everyones help and input.

[Maritime Matt]

DJ,
Glad you got it working. Lots of great input here from everyone. 
Matt