Motor won't start

[Baitwaster]

Was out on AC reef two weeks ago and my sterndrive froze up, it gradually just came to a stop., It did start about four or five more times then just cranked till the batteries were dead. I did find a new sterndrive for $400.00 that looks like it has about two hundred hrs. on it even came with the prop and trim cylinders. Went down yesterday and put it on then the motor wouldn't start to save it's ass. It had spark,fuel, cranked over good and even chased a few times after having to replace the starter of course Looked at the distributor cap and rotor and they are ok, put it at TDC and the rotor was lined up right, and checked for water in the fuel.The motor has about five hrs. on it since a complete rebuild, it ran like a clock before the sterndrive problem so I am stumped! Gonna put a timing light on it I guess then go from there. Any suggestions

Thanks in advance Matt

[Hotrod]

Sounds like your missing something very simple...

[BigAl13]

fuel and spark and wont start if the timing was off you would be getting aome sort of ignition or backfire . Is there smoke coming from the carb after you turn it over?did you flood it out? How do you know your getting fuel can you see it spraying into the carb? did you check your voltage at the batts. take a multi meter to the coil with the key in the on positio  you should be geting 12.2-12.4 volts. Have someone turn the key while metering the coil If your getting less than 12volts on start you may have a voltage drop out issue. There is also the shift interupt switch that can go bad and not allow a start. what  dizzy do you have on it. some setups a bad tach or a short at the tack will stop ignition also.

[Duffman]

You said the O/D seized up while running?  How did the coupler survive?  Should  have been toast if the O/D locked up? No?

When you replaced the drive, did you mess with the shift cable?  Check the shift interrrupt switch.

[Still Running]

If you have spark that tells me shift and kill switches are good. Fuel and timing are good ,the only thing I can think of is compression, did you check it?

[Hunter 2]

Try some starting fluid in the carb.

[Maritime Matt]

I think it needs more bait    Sounds like you did alot of trouble shooting already. Compression fuel and spark should start it up. Timing has nothing to due with drive unit seizing. Go back and double check everything.

[Kenny]

Ck your compression first...if that's good check your plugs...you might just be flooded...

 

[Baitwaster]

I went out today and put a light on it, timing was dead nuts on. Pulled the plugs and saw rust Water in the fuel without a doubt! A shot of W-D 40 and a bit of starting fluid in each cylinder,A set of new plugs and a turn of the key.. Of course like ten bottles of dry gas. And I plan on changing the fuel/water separator before the water makes it to the float bowl this time. Was just bad timing to have a sterndrive go bad and a shot of water go through all at the same time (IRISH) I did suspect it while down on the reef but the water was already in the float bowl so changing the filter out there was too little too late.

Thanks for all the input everybody!! I hope to be waiting bait very soon!  

[BigAl13]

glad it was simple. I know its mpre exspenive but get the fuel filter with the glass bowl it will let you see if theres water and let you drain it easily.

[Baitwaster]

Thanks. Gonna get a couple actually

[Hotrod]

 

[Maritime Matt]

glad it was simple. I know its mpre exspenive but get the fuel filter with the glass bowl it will let you see if theres water and let you drain it easily.

Al, I know you recommended this with all good intentions but just for info, it is illegal to have a Plastic bowl on a fuel/water seperator inside an enclosed engine compartment as where most are located on Inboard motor set-ups as per USCG and ABYC regs. The use of a Metal bowl with drain is allowed. Some years back, MerCruiser did have an engine mounted fuel filter [ not water separating ] with a Glass bowl with a metal retaining strap of some kind that secured a paper type replaceable element inside that glass. The ones I serviced it seems rarely got replaced due to there hard to access locations and would leak when re-assembled due to corrosion on 1 part or another.
If changing a fuel filter while at sea, make sure you have a sealed container to put the old one in along with any rags, diapers and such and make sure there is NO fumes present when re-starting that engine  or there may be no second chance. 
 

[BigAl13]

Matt I did not know that thanks for the info